Surfing can be a spiritual trip to zen land!
Surfing isn’t a religion, but for many surfers I know it comes pretty close.
Surfing feels like you belong to something greater than yourself. It‘s a mix between freedom and an spiritual connection with the ocean and the planet.
In a certain sense, surfing has a spiritual dimension to it. Surfing takes a person from his element (earth) into another element (water), and into an arena that requires trust. It actually does feel a little supernatural as to the feeling of walking on water, almost.
When a surfer submerge himself into the water, it feels as though all of their troubles, all of their stresses, all of their fears, anxieties, everything, just washes away. It isn’t necessarily a permanent cleansing of those negativities, but it is a way to clear the head, at least for the time being on water.
While there are, for sure, moments of fear, intimidation, boredom, and doubt ; depending on the condition of the waves and one’s relationship with it on a given day, there is always a moment of liberation and pride. To catch a wave is an overwhelming feeling of connectedness. Suddenly, you are standing on top of an uncontrollable and unpredictable natural element ; the incredible rush you get when you drop in on a wave that is followed by an extreme amount of focus where you don't think about anything else in that moment. You have to concentrate 100% on every little foot movement so you don't fall and in doing so, you feel some kind of euphoria that is as addicting as anything. It is scary and fun and intimidating all at the same time.